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| Estimated Boost: | 8psi (5.5psi stock) Zenki
10psi (7.5psi stock) Kouki |
| Estimated Power: | 200hp (182hp stock) Zenki
220hp (200hp stock) Kouki |
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Power going to the fuel pump is suspect on these cars due to age and
corrosion of the wires and connectors. A rewire guarantees full
voltage to the fuel pump.
[MORE]
An optional (more expensive) solution is to go with a fuel pump voltage regulator. Kenne Bell offers their Boost-A-Pump that will ensure proper voltage levels. Others are made by MSD and B&M. If you choose this route, a re-wire is not necessary. |
| The fuel-cut defenser prevents overboost fuel-cut when running higher boost levels. The stock ECU is programmed to trigger fuel-cut when running approximately 1psi over the stock boost levels. |
| K&N offers a drop in filter replacement of your OEM stock air filter that will flow more air. K&N part number 33-2017. |
| A cat-back exhaust system will free up your exhaust system by replacing the restrictive Y-pipe and mufflers. Emissions is still intact. Although technically not a "cheap" purchase, the (freeing of the) exhaust system is the key to producing power on these vehicles. [MORE] |
| The stock wastegate will be overwhelmed when exhaust is freed. This can cause uncontrolled boost creep that can damage your engine. Although labor intensive, it is a very cheap mod is you have the proper tools. [MORE] |
| Not so much as a performance mods, but more for a safety precaution against a failing front eccentric shaft thermowax pellet. Failure of this part will cause decreased oil pressure inside the engine. [MORE] |
| Estimated Boost: | 10psi Zenki 11psi Kouki |
| Estimated Power: | 220hp Zenki 230hp Kouki |
| An upgrade fuel pump guarantees fuel supply for increased power. It also prevents lean conditions due to the stock fuel pump running out of capacity when getting close to the 250hp level. [MORE] |
| Replacing the stock pre-catalytic converter with a downpipe will increase engine breathing and release more power. The pre-cat is primarily for cold-start emissions, but this should not affect a sniffer test when the engine is fully warmed up properly. [MORE] |
| An ignition CDI box will produce a more consistent ignition system. The stock ignition system has been known to be "weak". A Crane Cams HI-6 or MSD 6A will give you a little more power (up to 5hp) across the entire RPM band, crisper throttle response, and possibly better gas mileage! [MORE] |
| The stock viscous fan can fail without warning. Installation of an electric fan will free up some of the parasitic power loss from the stock viscous fan. An electric fan is also a much more efficient method of cooling, since the fan is only active when needed. |
| The stock air filter box is very restrictive. By replacing the air filter box and stock panel air filter with a cone filter, we free up the intake even more. 1986-1988 Zenki models needs to run an airflow meter adapter plate to mount a cone filter. 1989-1991 Kouki models can just clamp an air filter directly to the airflow meter. [MORE] |
| The addition of the fuel computer adds to fine-tuning the fuel delivery. This might or might not add to peak horsepower, but substantial gains are made by leaning out the midrange, as the stock ECU runs rich in these areas. One of the most popular types of fuel computers if the A'PEXi S-AFC. [MORE] |
| Replacing the main catalytic converter with an in-line muffler ensures a very free flowing exhaust system. You can even go straight pipe for this section, but a pre-silencer will give you a quieter exhaust note. With the removal of the main cat, emissions gets thrown out the door. [MORE] |
| By replacing the stock turbo inlet duct with a straighter pipe section, the intake gains even more efficiency. [MORE] |
| Main cats have been removed, so there's no need for the air pump. We recommend running a double-sheave alternator pulley and double water pump / alternator belts to prevent water pump pulley slippage after removing the air pump. [MORE] |
| Likewise with the air pump, the ACV and EGR valves have no use once the main cat is removed. After removal, replace with a block-off plate. |
| At this level of power, the stock fuel injectors (4 × 550) are getting close to their maximum safe output at 85%. Larger fuel injectors (coupled with the control of a fuel computer in Stage II) would allow for safer pulsewidths under 85%. [MORE] |
| The (turbo) rotary engine generates a lot of heat. The increase in power requires the needs for more cooling capacity. An upgrade radiator ensures increased cooling over the stock unit. [MORE] |
| An electronic boost controller will give you a more boost and a more aggressive boost curve. While running such modified boost levels, you'll need to tune for the fuel delivery with the fuel computer mentioned in Stage II. |
| Although not a performance enhancement, aftermarket gauges are used to monitor vital areas of your engine. They can immediately tell you when you're in danger and pinpoint a potential component failure. This is more of a safety mod at this point, as we are starting to make almost 100hp more than stock! [MORE] |
| With the increased boost, the potential for compressor surge is increased. By going with an aftermarket blow-off valve, we increase the capacity to vent the increased boost over the stock compressor bypass valve. Compressor surge will eventually kill turbo bearings and cause the turbo to wobble itself to death. [MORE] |
| With the increase of power, higher oil pressure is recommended to keep bearings and internal components libricated properly. Racing Beat offers an 80psi-85psi upgrade OPR that is easily installed once the oil pan is removed. [MORE] |
| The stock turbo is restricting power at this point. By enlarging the compressor section, we can increase serious power potential! By keeping the stock turbine, CHRA, and turbine housing (and turbine wheel), we are able to keep the stock turbo exhaust manifold and forego the cost of an expensive (full) turbo upgrade. [MORE] |
| The stock-mount intercooler is not very efficient above 10psi of boost. At higher (turbo) flow rates, it ends up being a restriction. By going with a front-mount intercooler, we ensure cool air intake temps to ward off detonation. [MORE] |
| We are at the stage where an engine rebuild is highly recommended. Some stock components are weak, and all engine internals should be inspected. Even the smallest internal parts failure can cause a catastrophic engine failure. At the same time, you have the luxury of porting the engine for more efficient flow. A street port / side port / extend port can gain up to 10% more power. [MORE - intake port] [MORE - exhaust port] |
| If you're planning to do an engine rebuild, use the stock FD3S corner seal springs. [MORE] |
| This is not an easy or cheap upgrade. Full turbo kits can easily cost a minimum of $3,000. If you're starting out with a bare turbo, you'll still need to buy a turbo exhaust manifold, intercooler and intake piping, oil (and water) lines, and exhaust discharge piping. The gains from the full turbo upgrade are huge and almost outside the control of the stock ECU. It is possible to get a full turbo upgrade running with the stock ECU, but restriction from the stock airflow meter starts to hinder efficient intake air flow with the larger turbos. [MORE] |
| Additional fuel injectors and an AIC controller is the easiest way to add more fuel if you're still sticking with the stock ECU. |
| If you're going for extreme power levels like 500hp, there are a number of engine components that should be upgraded. The rotor bearings are the first of many. Deeper oil grooves serve as more protection from such high power levels. [MORE] |
| Another engine part highly recommended to upgrade... [MORE] |
| With the upgraded stat gears, we recommend the better stat gear bearings to match. [MORE] |
| Add another part to increased lubrication... [MORE] |
| With the installation of the EMS, there are several advantages that become apparant. Most EMS units can control both fuel and ignition, which gives you total power over the engine. Don't be surprised, as with such flexiblity comes the danger of damaging the engine due to bad tuning! The elimination of the stock airflow meter adds greatly to the efficiency of the whole engine. The Haltech EMS is a very popular stand-alone EMS unit for (turbo) rotary engines. |
| The stock 5/16" O.D. had fuel lines can support up to 500hp. If you are planning to run more power, it is recommended to replace the primary fuel line feed with a -6 or even -8 AN stainless steel braid fuel line. |
| With such increased demands on fuel delivery, we recommend installing an aftermarket FPR for proper fuel rail pressure control. The FPR should have a vacuum fitting for boost, as pressure should rise with turbo boost. Popular units are made by SX and Aeromotive. [MORE] |
| The stock fuel flow runs from the primary fuel rail to the secondary fuel rail then the FPR. Most aftermarket FPR's can handle dual inputs, so it's advantageous to convert the stock fuel flow system to a parallel flow system to take advantage of the aftermarket FPR. The parallel fuel rail system allows for more consistent fuel delivery to all fuel injectors. [MORE] |
| By inserting extra dowels within the engine housings, we strengthen the engine from unwanted twisting and flexing. This is not an easy procedure to do, as it required accurate machining to do properly. There are rumors that the front housing tension bolt bosses crack on a Zenki motor at anything above 400hp. Kouki motors have been known to go up to 500hp. 13B-REW engines have been known to go up to 600hp. |
| A bridgeport requires opening and porting the intake ports. A bridgeport can make great power gain at the top end, but it's typically kills low-end torque due to the increased overlap. The bridge in the bridgeport also tends to fail due to it's delicate design. [MORE] |
| With the limits reached with the 2-rotor 13B, the 20B is the natural progression for more power. Add another rotor chamber for 50% more displacement, we're talking an engine that has the potential to break the quadruple digit power mark. Building a 600hp-700hp 20B engine is trivial - add a big enough turbo with enough boost, and you have the potential to literally twist the stock chassis. |
| This pushes you back to square one. You'll need to calculate power potential and install the proper components to support such power levels. This means a bigger fuel pump, more/larger fuel injectors, reconfigure the stand-alone EMS to fire the 20B correctly, bigger turbo, bigger pipes... Stronger, bigger, more, more money! |